How To Build Your Own PC From Scratch Step by Step With Pictures Tutorials

 

There are plenty of great pre-built gaming PCs on the market, but there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of using one that you create yourself. While the process of assembling a computer isn’t difficult, it’s daunting the first time you do it. For those embarking on their first build, we’ve put together a step-by-step guide to building a PC.

Before we start, know that this is a guide exclusively dedicated to assembly. That means you’ll need to pick out your parts first. Our list of recommended cases, CPUs,GPUs, motherboards, SSDs, power supplies and RAM, along with our buying guides can help you choose key components.

The other thing to know is that no two builds are identical. The order we’re going in here is based partly on preference and also based on the needs of the build. For instance, if you have a large aftermarket cooler that blocks the DIMM slots, you may have to go in a different order than we did, or backtrack and pull out a part here or there to to make room for a particularly bulky part or cramped case. More advanced options like liquid cooling and RGB lighting, as well as high-end CPU platforms like Intel's Core X and AMD's Threadripper also aren’t covered in this guide.

Be Prepared

Before you start building a PC, you need to get your workspace ready. Make sure that you have all of your parts and tools at the ready. At the very least, you’ll want

• Phillips-head screwdrivers (#1 and #2 should do the trick)
• Zip ties and/or twist ties for cable management
• Flashlight (it can get dark in the corners of a PC case)
• Thermal paste (although stock coolers usually have this pre-applied)
• Something to hold your screws
• Band-aids (just in case)

Some builders swear by anti-static equipment, including mats or wrist straps. But as long as you don’t live in a particularly dry environment, you’re not building on a metal surface (opt for wood or plastic) and you aren't rubbing your socks on a carpet while building, you should be able to avoid shorting out your PC or parts. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with playing things safe. So if you’re worried about static, take the appropriate precautions.

Connect Components to the Motherboard

While some prefer to mount the motherboard in the case before they do anything else, it’s easier with many builds to connect key components like the CPU and the RAM, without leaning over inside the chassis.

The CPU

Whether you’re going with an Intel or and AMD build, the first step is to release the tension lever on the CPU so that you can drop the processor into the CPU socket(opens in new tab). (The big difference here is that on Intel builds the pins are on the socket while in AMD’s case, the pins are on the CPU.)

The arrow/triangle on the top of the CPU needs to line up with one on the socket or the socket cover. Don’t attempt to install a CPU with the arrow facing the wrong direction, or you could damage your chip, your board, or both! Once your CPU and socket are properly aligned, you can drop the chip in place, and it  will settle into the socket under its own weight. If it doesn't, pick up the CPU and re-seat it. Don't force the processor into the socket or you'll almost certainly damage something. Once you've got the CPU settled correctly in the socket, press the tension lever back down (on Intel motherboards like the one in the image above, this will also include a metal plate that holds the CPU in).

Note that the above instructions pertain to the mainstream platforms for AMD (the AM4 socket) and Intel (socket LGA 1700). Enthusiast platforms like Intel’s Core X (LGA 2066) and AMD’s Threadripper (sTRX4) have different/more complex CPU installations, with the Intel chips involving two levers and Threadripper requiring Torx screws and a slide-in plastic bracket. The Threadripper CPU install process in particular is tricky and, given the price of chips and TRX40 motherboards, we would not recommend Threadripper as your first PC build platform.

Once the cooler is installed, plug the fan connector into its header on the motherboard. This is usually somewhere close to the CPU socket and labeled something like "CPU_FAN." 

The Cooler

Many processors come with coolers in the box. If you’re not doing any heavy overclocking, those may be good enough, though lots of builders also like to buy more powerful (and often quieter) aftermarket coolers, which may also just be more attractive.

If you decide to use the stock cooler, you'll find that it already has thermal paste applied. With aftermarket coolers, you’ll generally need to apply your own thermal paste. You don’t need much--just a pea-sized amount applied to the center of the CPU will spread when you put the cooler on. Again, serious overclockers and PC build veterans will have techniques for evenly spreading thermal compound. But for novice builders and those not looking to achieve the maximum possible overclock speeds, dropping a small amount in the center and letting the CPU cooler spread the thermal paste works just fine. Just make sure you don't add too much paste; you definitely don't want it squirting out the sides onto the socket and surrounding PCB.

Stock coolers for Intel processors use push pins that go through holes in the motherboard. We recommend pushing opposite corners in to evenly spread the thermal paste, and to keep from putting uneven pressure on one side of the CPU. AMD stock coolers have metal arms that snap into notches on a plastic bracket on either side of the socket. Aftermarket coolers mount in various ways, so be sure to consult the instruction manual, as mounting aftermarket coolers can be surprisingly complicated, often involving a large backplate that has to be mounted behind the motherboard.

Memory

Installing RAM is a snap--literally. First, make sure that the latches for each memory slot are open. Some boards have latches on both sides of a RAM slot, while others--often budget boards--have a latch on one side, with the other end fixed in place. Once your latches are opened, look at each DIMM and position it over the slot such that the small divot on the bottom of the RAM stick is aligned with the matching bump on the board. Finally, push down on the DIMM on each edge until it snaps into place, causing the latches to close on their own. The process requires a bit of force, but if you’re having trouble, make sure that you’re not putting the module in backwards.

If you’re installing two RAM sticks in a board that has four slots, check the motherboard manual to make sure you’re installing your DIMMs in the right slots. If you put them in the wrong slots you may not get the best performance possible, or one of the sticks may not be recognized by the motherboard/operating system.

M.2 SSD

If you’re using an M.2 SSD, now is as good a time as any to install it, because later on other parts may get in the way.

If it’s already installed, remove the screw located across from the M.2 slot and slide the SSD in at an angle. Make sure the notch lines up with the slot, similar to RAM installation. If the notch doesn’t line up, your drive may not be compatible with that slot. Slowly lay the SSD flat and secure the mounting screw. This tiny screw is easy to drop, which is another reason to install M.2 drives before putting your motherboard into the case.

Putting the Motherboard in the Case

Now that we’ve built the core platform (minus the graphics card, which we’ll do later), we’re going to install the CPU and RAM-equipped motherboard in the case. If you haven’t yet, remove the side panels on your chassis. Most cases have thumb screws holding their panels in place, which makes it easy to remove them.

Standoffs

First, gather the standoffs that came with your case and find the proper place to install them. They’re likely marked on the case based on the size of the motherboard you chose. Many cases have standoffs preinstalled, so you may be able to skip this step. If standoffs are preinstalled in the wrong spot for your motherboard, you can use needle nose pliers to get  them out.

I/O Shield

The I/O shield, which covers the area around your rear ports, comes with your motherboard. You’ll need to fit the shield into the chassis before you install the motherboard itself, making sure it's the right-side up so that your motherboard ports will fit through the holes once both are installed. You’ll have to use some force to snap all four corners into place. Be careful of sharp edges (that’s why you have the band-aids) as well as metal bits that can block the ports--especially if you have a budget motherboard.

The exception are some premium boards, which ship with this shield pre-attached, but you won't find that on most boards.

The Motherboard

Now, it’s time to put the motherboard in. Make sure the holes on the motherboard line up with the standoffs you installed and that the ports line up with the cutouts on the I/O shield. Once the board is in, put the screws into the standoffs to anchor the motherboard in place.

Adding the Power Supply and Traditional/SATA Storage

Now for a few parts that aren’t attached directly to the motherboard.

Power Supply

The PSU is usually mounted to the back at the case. Sometimes you’ll find it at the top, but it’s usually mounted at the bottom, where it can pull in cool air from under the chassis. Once you put it in place, it’s generally as simple as screwing it into place with four screws at the back of the case. Then, plug in the 24-pin power connector and supplemental/CPU power connector into the motherboard.

SATA Storage

We added M.2 storage earlier, so now it’s time for SATA drives, which could be a 2.5-inch SSD or hard drive, or a traditional 3.5-inch hard drive. Connect the SATA data cable to the motherboard and your drive or drives, then connect the SATA power connector from the PSU to your drive(s). Mount the hard drive or SSD in the appropriate bracket and screw or snap it into place. Note that bracket/drive mounting methods and placement vary by chassis model.

Inserting the Graphics Card

This is an optional step. If you’re using an Intel or AMD CPU with integrated graphics and don’t plan on serious gaming, you may not need or want a discrete graphics card. Many AMD CPUs, as well as high-end Intel models, don’t have on-board graphics, though, and will require a graphics card in order to connect and output to your monitor.

To install the GPU, you'll likely have to remove some slot covers on the back of the case, so that the HDMI, DVI and other ports show through, letting you can connect your monitor(s) later.

Connect the GPU into the PCIe X16 slot on the motherboard (it’s the long one, and you’ll want to use the topmost one if there’s more than one on your motherboard). If necessary, plug the PCIe power connectors from the power supply into the card. (You may not need to do this on lower-end cards).

Add a Wi-Fi Card (if necessary)

Most motherboards come with an Ethernet port on them and many also have Wi-Fi built-in. However, if you need wireless access and your computer doesn’t come with a Wi-Fi card, you’ll need to install one in one of the PCIe slots, a short M.2 slot, or attach a USB Wi-Fi dongle. If you’re gaming, an Ethernet connection is probably your best bet for reliable connectivity.

The Last of the Cable Connections

OK, just a few more cables to go until we try turning the PC on. Make sure the connectors for any fans are plugged into the motherboard fan headers. Then, attach the front-panel audio cable, USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 case connectors to those headers. You’ll want to consult your motherboard manual for this, because their location varies by motherboard model.

Lastly, there are the tiny front-panel connectors, including power, reset, HDD activity light, etc. Those need to go to the appropriate pins on the motherboard (usually in the bottom-right corner if your motherboard is mounted in the traditional orientation. You’ll need to consult your motherboard manual to see where each should go, as this also can differ based on board make and model.

Double check that you’re using the right headers. These things are small (and so are their labels), so it’s easy to mess them up if you’re not paying close attention.

Turn the Computer On

Once all that's done, it's a good idea to double check to make sure there are no extra fan headers or power cables still waiting to be routed to the right connector. Then plug the PC in, plug in and connect your monitor (to one of the ports on the graphics card, if you've installed on) and your keyboard and mouse.

Hit the power button on your monitor, then turn the power supply switch on (on the back of the power supply) and then press your PC's power button. If everything is working, the PC should turn on and run its POST (power-on self test). Since your operating system isn’t installed yet, you may get an error message about a missing boot drive, or you may get sent straight to the UEFI/BIOS.

Cable Management

This is where you make your case pretty and ensure better air flow. We’re doing this after we know that the system boots properly, because we’d hate to tear apart all of the careful wiring and cut a bunch of zip ties just to have to re-seat a component or reroute a cable. You could of course install your operating system before this step. And clean cable routing is of course less important if you don’t have a case with a window. But we like things neat and pretty, so it’s time to shut the system down, unplug the power cable and clean things up.

Routing some cables through the back of the case during the build process is a good first step toward a clean build. But this is where we’ll shove any extra cable slack through the back panel, break out the zip ties to neaten things up and then, put the side panels back on. You could spend hours making your cable routing as perfect as possible. But just spending 15 minutes making an effort to clean up your cables can make a huge visual difference in what your final build looks like.

Install an Operating System, Drivers and Updates

Preferably before the build process, you'll want to make a USB install drive for either Windows 10, Windows 11, or the Linux build of your choice. For Windows 10 or Windows 11, simply navigate to Microsoft’s Download page and click the “Download Tool Now” button. You’ll download and run the Media Creation tool which will turn any 8GB or larger USB drive into a Windows install disk. If you don’t already have a Windows 10 or 11 key, you can get one cheap or for free. If you have a problem with the OS, you can try to reset Windows to factory settings.

Those who install Windows 10 now can update to Windows 11 later as a free upgrade.

Plug the USB drive into your new computer, power on and you should boot into your operating system installer, which will step you through the process. If the system doesn’t access your drive, you may need to navigate to the BIOS and make sure your USB key is available as a boot device and that it's placed in the boot order before your internal drive or drives.

Once you've installed your operating system, when you first connect to the internet, Windows 10 and Windows 11 are pretty good these days at getting device drivers. However, you should still go to the manufacturers’ product pages for your parts to make sure you have or get the latest updates.

Finally, when your OS and drivers are all updated, it’s time to start using your PC! The one that you built. Install some games, stream some movies, edit some photo or video, chat on Discord — whatever it is you like to do with your PC. And remember: Whenever you’re ready to add more features or performance, you can always upgrade.

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Anyone can compile open source code in these three simple steps Without Pictures Tutorials

 There are many ways to install software, but you get an option not available elsewhere with open source: You can compile the code yourself. The classic three-step process to compile source code:

$ ./configure

$ make

$ sudo make install

Thanks to these commands, you might be surprised to find that you don't need to know how to write or even read code to compile it.

Install commands to build software

As this is your first time compiling, there's a one-time preparatory step to install the commands for building software. Specifically, you need a compiler. A compiler, such as GCC or LLVM, turns source code that looks like this:

#include <iostream>

using namespace std;

int main() {

  cout << "hello world";

}

Into machine language, the instructions that a CPU uses to process information. You can look at machine code, but it wouldn't make any sense to you (unless you're a CPU.)

You can get the GNU C compiler (GCC) and the LLVM compiler, along with other essential commands for compiling on Fedora, CentOS, Mageia, and similar distributions, using your package manager:

$ sudo dnf install @development clang

On Debian, Elementary, Mint, and similar distributions:

$ sudo apt install build-essential clang

With your system set up, there are a few tasks that you'll repeat each time you want to compile your software:

Download the source code

Unarchive the source code 

Compile

You have all the commands you need, so now you need some software to compile.

1. Download source code

Obtaining source code for an application is much like getting any downloadable software. You go to a website or a code management site like GitLab, SourceForge, or GitHub. Typically, open source software is available in both a work-in-progress ("current" or "nightly") form as well as a packaged "stable" release version. Use the stable version when possible unless you have reason to believe otherwise or are good enough with code to fix things when they break. The term stable suggests the code got tested and that the programmers of the application feel confident enough in the code to package it into a .zip or .tar archive, give it an official number and sometimes a release name, and offer it for download to the general non-programmer public.

For this exercise, I'm using Angband, an open source (GPLv2) ASCII dungeon crawler. It's a simple application with just enough complications to demonstrate what you need to consider when compiling software for yourself.

Download the source code from the website.

2. Unarchive the source code

Source code is often delivered as an archive because source code usually consists of multiple files. You have to extract it before interacting with it, whether it's a tarball, a zip file, a 7z file, or something else entirely. 

$ tar --extract --file Angband-x.y.z.tar.gz

Once you've unarchived it, change the directory into the extracted directory and have a look around. There's usually a README file at the top level of the directory. This file, ideally, contains guidance on what you need to do to compile the code. The README often contains information on these important aspects of the code:

Language: What language the code is in (for instance, C, C++, Rust, Python).

Dependencies: What other software you need to have installed on your system for this application to build and run.

Instructions: The literal steps you need to take to build the software. Occasionally, they include this information within a dedicated file intuitively entitled INSTALL.

If the README file doesn't contain that information, consider filing a bug report with the developer. You're not the only one who needs an introduction to source code. Regardless of how experienced they are, everyone is new to source code they've never seen before, and documentation is important!

Angband's maintainers link to online instructions to describe how to compile the code. This document also describes what other software you need to have installed, although it doesn't exactly spell it out. The site says, "There are several different front ends that you can optionally build (GCU, SDL, SDL2, and X11) using arguments to configure such as --enable-sdl, --disable-x11, etc." This may mean something to you or look like a foreign language, but this is the kind of stuff you get used to after compiling code frequently. Whether or not you understand what X11 or SDL2 is, they're both requirements that you see pretty often after regularly compiling code over a few months. You get comfortable with the idea that most software needs other software libraries because they build upon other technologies. In this case, though, Angband is very flexible and compiles with or without these optional dependencies, so for now, you can pretend that there are no additional dependencies.

3. Compile the code

The canonical steps to build code are:

$ ./configure

$ make

$ sudo make install

Those are the steps for projects built with Autotools, which is a framework created to standardize how source code is delivered. Other frameworks (such as Cmake) exist, however, and they require different steps. When projects stray from Autotools or Cmake, they tend to warn you in the README file.

Configure 

Angband uses Autotools, so it's time to compile code!

In the Angband directory, first, run the configuration script included with the source:

$ ./configure

This step scans your system to find the dependencies that Angband requires to build correctly. Some dependencies are so basic that your computer wouldn't be running without them, while others are specialized. At the end of the process, the script gives you a report on what it has found:

[...]

configure: creating ./config.status

config.status: creating mk/buildsys.mk

config.status: creating mk/extra.mk

config.status: creating src/autoconf.h

Configuration:

  Install path:    /usr/local

  binary path:     /usr/local/games

  config path:     /usr/local/etc/angband/

  lib path:        /usr/local/share/angband/

  doc path:        /usr/local/share/doc/angband/

  var path:        (not used)

  (save and score files in ~/.angband/Angband/)

-- Frontends --

- Curses            Yes

- X11               Yes

- SDL2              Disabled

- SDL               Disabled

- Windows           Disabled

- Test              No

- Stats             No

- Spoilers          Yes

- SDL2 sound        Disabled

- SDL sound         Disabled

Some of that output may make sense to you, some of it may not. Either way, you probably notice that SDL2 and SDL are marked as Disabled, and both Test and Stats are marked with No. Although negative, this isn't necessarily a bad thing. This, essentially, is the difference between a Warning and an Error. Had the configure script encountered something that would prevent it from building the code, it would have alerted you with an error.

If you want to optimize your build a little, you can choose to resolve these negative messages. By searching through the Angband documentation, you might decide that Test and Stats aren't actually of interest to you (they're developer options, specific to Angband). However, with a little online research, you might discover that SDL2 would be a nice feature to have. 

To resolve a dependency when compiling code, you need to install the missing component and the development libraries for that missing component. In other words, Angband needs SDL2 to play sound, but it needs SDL2-devel (called libsdl2-dev, on Debian systems) to build. Install both with your package manager:

$ sudo dnf install sdl2 sdl2-devel

Try the configuration script again:

$ ./configure --enable-sdl2

[...]

Configuration:

[...]

- Curses                                  Yes

- X11                                     Yes

- SDL2                                    Yes

- SDL                                     Disabled

- Windows                                 Disabled

- Test                                    No

- Stats                                   No

- Spoilers                                Yes

- SDL sound                               Disabled

- SDL2 sound                              Yes

Make

Once everything's configured, run the make command:

$ make

This usually takes a while, but it provides lots of visual feedback, so you'll know code is getting compiled.

Install 

The final step is to install the code you've just compiled. There's nothing magical about installing code. All that happens is that lots of files get copied to very specific directories. That's true whether you're compiling from source code or running a fancy graphical install wizard. Because the code is getting copied to system-level directories, you must have root (administrative) privileges, which get granted by the sudo command.

$ sudo make install

Run the application

Once the application gets installed, you can run it. According to the Angband documentation, the command to start the game is angband, so try it out:

$ angband

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How to Install VMware Workstation 16 Pro (2021) On Windows 10 With Pictures Tutorials

 Lets get started. Installing the software is fairly straight forward. All you have to do is to download the installer from the website, run it and follow the instructions. Below are the steps:

Step 1- Download Link

Link for downloading the software is this. Download the software for windows. Good thing is that there is no signup process. Click and download begins. Software is around 622 MB.

Step 2- Download the installer file

It should probably be in the download folder by default, if you have not changed the settings in your browser. File name should be something like VMware-workstation-full-16.1.0-17198959.exe. This file name can change depending on the version of the software currently available for download. But for now, till the next version is available, they will all be VMware Workstation 16 Pro.

Step 3- Run the Installer

Find the installer on your system and double click to launch the application. By default, the downloaded files are placed in the downloads folder.

Now you should see User Access Control (UAC) dialog box. Click yes to continue

Initial Splash screen will appear. Wait for the process to complete.

Step 4- VMware Workstation Setup wizard

Now you will see VMware Workstation setup wizard dialog box. Click next to continue.

Step 5- End User Licence Agreement

This time you should see End User Licence Agreement dialog box. Check “I accept the terms in the Licence Agreement” box and press next to continue.

Step 6- Custom Setup options

Select the folder in which you would like to install the application. There is no harm in leaving the defaults as it is. Also select Enhanced Keyboard Driver check box.

Step 8- Application Shortcuts preference

Next step is to select the place you want the shortcut icons to be placed on your system to launch the application. Please select both the options, desktop and start menu and click next.

Step 9- Installation begins

Now you see the begin installation dialog box. Click install to start the installation process.

Below screenshot shows Installation in progress. Wait for this to complete.

At the end you will see installation complete dialog box. Click finish and you are done with the installation process. You may be asked to restart your computer. Click on Yes to restart.

Step 10- Launch VMware Workstation

After the installation completes, you should see VMware Workstation icon on the desktop. Double click on it to launch the application.

Step 11- Licence Key

If you see the dialog box asking for licence key, click on trial or enter the licence key. If don’t have the licence key, you will have 30 days trial. Click on trial to start your trial.

That’s it, you can start using VMware Workstation.

Step 12- At some point if you decide to buy

At some point of time if you decide to buy the Licence key, you can enter the Licence key by going to Help->Enter a Licence Key
You can enter the 25 character licence key in the dialog box shown below and click OK. Now you have the licence version of the software.

ON MY BLOG YOU CAN FIND THE LICENCE KEY JUST TYPE VM WARE IN THE SEARCH BLOG OR SHOWING LICENCE KEYS BELOW

VMware-workstation-16-pro-serial-key

Serial keys:

ZF3R0-FHED2-M80TY-8QYGC-NPKYF

YF390-0HF8P-M81RQ-2DXQE-M2UT6

ZF71R-DMX85-08DQY-8YMNC-PPHV8

AZ3E8-DCD8J-0842Z-N6NZE-XPKYF

FC11K-00DE0-0800Z-04Z5E-MC8T6

FGBFD-FDGDFGH-NHGMGM-HGGJGH

COPY AND PASTE

ENJOY

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